Choosing the Right Enclosure for Your Build

When people talk about golf simulators, the focus jumps to launch monitors, projectors, software. But the enclosure + impact screen is where the magic (or the mess) lives. It’s the difference between playing reliably and chasing errors, safety, and frustration.

In this post, I’ll walk you through what a great enclosure must do, then compare two main styles we work with (the DIY Enclosure from Carl’s Place and SimBooth), and a third (Murphy Retractable) that redefines flexibility. By the end, you’ll understand trade-offs and feel confident which direction fits your space.

What an Enclosure Really Has to Deliver

Here are the must-haves (and why ordinary netting or curtain setups fall short):

You can get “something that works” cheaply, but when you insist on consistent accuracy, safety, and a built environment, those flaws magnify. That’s where strong enclosure choice pays back.

Option A: DIY Enclosure from Carl’s Place

Carl's Place C‑Series DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit

What makes it interesting:

• Modular: you pick dimensions down to the inch. 

• It comes with impact screen + framing drapes/netting in kits. Price points start lower (for smaller enclosures) compared to full built systems. 

• Many users build with EMT pipe + custom cut lengths (or use Carl’s pre-cut pipe kits) and use foam inserts so the ball doesn't hit the pipe framing. 

• Because pipes are exposed (if you go DIY), many recommend adding foam sleeves or inserts to reduce visual distraction and injury risk.

Strengths:

• Flexibility. You can tailor size precisely to your room (which is huge when dimensions are tight).

• Lower cost floor entry (if you’re willing to sweat a bit).

• Upgradable: you can swap screens, netting, additional panels later.

Limitations / things to watch:

• Assembly and precision matter. If pipes aren’t cut or aligned well, the screen tension will distort.

• Exposed frame parts need covering for safety & aesthetics (many users add foam).

• Larger builds may push custom pipe costs high or require shipping of large parts. 

• Impact fabric choice becomes more critical—cheap fabric degrades, wrinkles, or reflects too much light.

So Carl’s Place DIY is powerful if you’re hands-on, precise, and okay bridging some gaps (wiring, concealment) yourself.

Option B: SimBooth Pre-fabricated Enclosures

SimBooth Booth 1 Enclosure

Here’s what SimBooth brings:

• Rigid aluminum frame (6063-T52) and structurally solid panels. 

• Full-surface flooring so the screen border aligns flush, eliminating “edge drop” issues.

• Crease-free screens (fabric tensioned top-to-bottom, side-to-side) to preserve image quality. 

• Smooth side panels made of solid canvas, no visible seams or loose netting. 

• Self-installation on smaller models (SimBooth 1, 2) is marketed as manageable without heavy trades. 

• Multiple sizes (SimBooth 1, 2, 3, 4) to scale from residential to commercial use. 

Strengths:

• Clean, professional aesthetic. No exposed pipes or DIY “mess.”

• Less room for error in structural alignment because frames and panels are engineered.

• Because the screen is tensioned and panels are stable, image quality holds up over time.

• Lower maintenance on day-to-day alignment or tweaks.

Trade-offs:

• Higher upfront cost. You’re paying for engineering, fabrication, and logistics.

• Some models require pro installation (larger ones). 

• Less flexibility for custom irregular room shapes (though many sizes exist).

• Shipping bulk and handling could be a challenge depending on your location.

SimBooth is appealing when you want something close to turnkey, clean, and durable—less tinkering under the hood.

Option C: Murphy Retractable / Folding Enclosure

I call this the “when you don’t want the simulator visible” option.

• The Murphy retractable enclosure folds up from a wall and tucks out of the way in under a minute.

• When closed, it protrudes about 24 inches from the wall. 

• Extended, the hitting deck reaches 12 feet from the wall, with a screen height of roughly 8 feet 2 inches (in the 10’ model) and width ~10’10”. 

• It comes with frame pads, curtains, carpeting, and typically includes installation. 

• Ideal for rooms with dual purpose (living, gym, office) where you don’t want permanent walls.

Advantages:

• Disappears. You don’t lose room usability when you're not golfing.

• Streamlined design. Everything is built into its own structural package.

• Good for clients who want “multi-use” space without visible tech.

Caveats:

• Higher cost (materials + installation).

• You need wall anchoring and room to mount; not every wall can support that force.

• There’s still a minimum space envelope needed (height, depth).

• Moving or redesigning later is more complex than a modular kit.

Which One Might Suit You?

Here’s a simplified guideline based on your priorities:

But always test fit in your space—measure swing room, projector lines, sensor views. The best enclosure still fails if your ceiling hides in pipes or the screen bows.

What We Do for Customers (That Seals the Difference)

What many skip: aligning projector offset, calibrating impact screen stretch, padding edges, routing wiring so nothing interferes with sensors, and stress-testing corners under high-speed shots.

If you send us your room dimensions (height, width, depth) and photos, we’ll run it through all three options and show you which fits cleanest, where trade-offs hide, and what parts you’d need. That’s the moment you stop guessing, and your supplier becomes more partner than vendor.